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Leaving India.

I have spent the last few days of my tour in Delhi buying a few bits and pieces. I am still amazed by India with such beautiful temples and architecture along with craftsmen that produce such intricate work in metal, stone and wood. There are still British influences with Connaught Place and the curved verandas and pillars that look so Victorian. In contrast to the squalor of local markets in the back streets where the life of the masses is a struggle to eek out an existence and every Rupee is hard earned. Cattle wander everywhere and somehow survive. I have seen minor collisions and been involved in one or two and in the market the other day I witnessed a 4X4 push a vendors cart out of the way with the vendor pinned between his cart and the next. He didn’t seem too hurt, but the 4X4 just drove off after he had made his space. Such inconsiderate driving would not be tolerated in the UK but it seems the norm here. The everyday markets are incredible where you can get almost anything or anything made. There are little businesses everywhere with little machine shops to do more sophisticated stuff in metal or wood. I have seen temples so lavish and well kept to those that are just holding together. I recall a comment from a museum curator he said “It is only the tourists that are making the Indian people preserve what they have”. In Assam I see the old colonial post office buildings falling down. These are beautiful buildings but now the postal system has got up to date they are no longer used which is a great shame. The beaches are long and sandy with softer waves on the west coast, Arabian Sea, to the more wild waves of the Bay of Bengal. In-land I have found my place to motorcycle and that is Rajasthan with its peaceful outlook and good tarmaced roads I will have to try them out perhaps on an Enfield or a Triumph or even on one of the lightweights that most people ride, In all of my travels I encountered only one day of rain and that was in Delhi. I have not been able to see all I wanted as President Obama has just arrived followed by Independence Day and many of the public areas and roads have been closed because of this. I hope this paves the way to better things. Just home and Guy Martin is doing his bit to show some of what India is like. I can empathise with him about riding in Delhi.

 The Mural.

I have seen posts on Facebook while I was away about Jack Lilley’s new piece of art work and took advantage of their open evening that was the launch if the new Tiger 800 models to see it. I am always welcomed there and they let me talk Museum stuff and hand out and fliers. Many thanks to them for a pleasant evening. 

 New Tiger.

At some point I will try out the new Tiger and also have a look at the Explorer as it seems to have a lower seat height. I do like the size of the 675 street triple and with a few mods could be a nice small alternative to the Tigers.

Triumph India

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Return to Delhi.

After visiting the Royal Enfield shrine we visited another temple to be relieved of more cash and on the return journey I spotted a cow driven water wheel. Straight out of the history books. Simply buckets on a chain! For a donation of 50 Rupees I took a few photos and went on my way.

The next morning before yet another delayed flight, some 4 hours again, I spent an hour at the Udaipur Royal car museum. This has all the cars used by the Royal Family with a number of interestingly modified versions, a number of Mercedes including the first diesel engine model the 180D. All the still run. The surprise was a Standard Herald that was made in India. It was budged  Triumph in the UK. In the museum there is the 1934 Rolls Royce features in the 1982 Bond movie Octopussy. You may also remember the fight scene from inside the white hotel in the lake.

Returning to Delhi, and the end of my tour nigh, I contacted Triumph India head quarters at Mahipalpur to see if I could visit them while I was still in India. Within 24 hours they had agreed to see me and I was collected by a driver and whisked off to the Radisson Commercial Complex where the offices are located. I was greeted by Mudit who had arranged everything. In the foyer of the office there was a map of India and on it was marked the off-road routes that are supported by Triumph India. There are a lot of them. Many of the places I had visited coincided with the routes.

 I had a great time talking to Vimal Sumbly the managing director about the Museum. I had come with megabytes of pictures that included Bruce Anstey’s 2003 TT winning Triumph. I had other pictures of Trusty, Ricky and TT, also the little video of the police bike cutaway and the last Bonnie out of the factory. I downloaded them to a laptop for them to use to promote both Triumph and the Museum. I introduced him to the Museum website and of course the blog and at the end I was introduced to the team who keep Triumphs running in India.

We talked for nearly two hours about Triumph motorcycles and what I had experienced on my tour so far. My time was up all too soon as Vimal had another meeting arranged. I appreciated his time and letting me talk for so long. I did receive a few gifts that I think these too will end up at the Museum. If you area around New Delhi there are organised bike runs out on Saturdays and Sundays that go out at around 7:00 am! A bit too early for me in the winter!

The Enfield Shrine.

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The Story of Om Bana

I first encountered this tale from a book by Alistair Shearer called “Views from an Indian bus”. This peaked my interest to see if this was true I looked it up on the internet to find that there is even something on YouTube to see. At the time I thought I must see this and when I visited India it was on the list of things to do. This version of his story comes from the taxi driver who took us from Udaipur to Chotila more than 250km away.

 Some of the damage to the Enfield.
 

Om Bana rode a 350 Enfield Bullet and on his wedding day, and as with any wedding day not everything goes according to plan. Something had been forgotten and he and a friend went off on the Bullet to get it. Sadly to say that on their journey they encountered a truck and in the accident Om died by the tree next to the shrine and his friend injured. This was on National Highway 62 near the village of Chotila. Om’s friend survived to relate the tale. After the accident the bike was taken to the local Police Station where it would remain until proceedings have been completed. The next day the bike was missing from the Police station. It had found its way back to the site of the accident. The Police collected the bike and took it back to their station. The next day the bike was missing from the Police station again. It had found its way back to the site of the accident. The Police collected the bike and took it back to their station. The same thing happened the next day and the day after until someone at the station, thinking a practical joke removed all the fuel and oil from the machine that was under lock and key. The next day the bike was again missing and turned up at the site of the accident. In desperation the Police returned the bike to the family to do something with it. The family decided that if that was where the bike wanted to be then so be it and left it there. It has now become a shrine for the biking community. This happened more than ten years ago. There is more, in that on the anniversary of Om’s death the bike starts up on its own and runs for a while. In an interview it is said that his wife has had Om visit after his death during the night and now she has a child.

India is a very spiritual place and that anything that can be done to keep the gods happy is worth doing. Upsetting them will do you no good at all. In reverence to Om and, obviously a spirit had been embodied in his 350 Bullet, the bike is now revered as a god of motorcycling and given respect and offerings. Paying tribute will bring you safe riding. Much has been built around the bike, a glass case to protect it from the weather a dais for the pictures of Om, the flame and incense bowl. You enter under a row of bells as in India all spirits are sleeping so to awaken them, to hear you, a bell must be rung. Just beyond that there is usually a ”Holy Man” who will give you a smudge of red in the centre of your forehead called a bindi. A gift of money is required.

 The Dais.

As you walk around the shrine prayers are whispered touching something to make a connection and then to the dais where incense is burning and more prayers are whispered along with another donation. After this you receive something from a “Holy Man” and in this case it was a few white sweets. The whole experience is called Puja. The tree next to the shrine where Om died is bedecked in orage and yellow thread.. Coloured thread and garlands of orange and yellow marigold  represent wishes and prayers.

The Tree and me.

The shrine was moved when the road was widened. The tree remained but the bike was only moved to the other side of the tree. The spirit does not seem to have objected.

Rajasthan

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Udaipur.

Puri and Bhubaneswar had not been a pleasant experience. The best bit about it was seeing a Royal Enfield motorcycle club parade down the sea front, with a police escort. The thunder of the exhaust from about fifty bikes was a thrill to hear. They all came back again after a couple of hours and I could hear them come and go as I lay in bed. Delhi was still cold. I was getting used to the traffic and after the manic atmosphere of Puri the manic driving in Delhi seemed almost sane. We spent only a few days in the Delhi cold to fly out again to Udaipur. The flight was delayed and it turned out to be a very expensive delay as there was little else to do while we waited. Udaipur is in Rajasthan in the west of India and renowned for being a progressive state. We could see this as soon as we landed. A pleasant drive from the airport with reasonably sensible driving into a clean city. Udaipur is so different surrounded by hills it seems cut off from the rest of India. We did the touristy stuff and visited the palace and had a boat trip around the hotel in the lake. 
 

We were hoping to have tea within its splendour but now you can only do that if you are a resident. The main reason for me visiting this city was to be able to get to Chotila some 250km away. Other ways to get there were proving difficult with the distances from Jodhpur and Jaipur even greater and with limited time available this seemed the best option. After a day in the city we had an early start to travel by car to Chotila. The route included some very smooth dual carriageway, narrow roads through villages and over the hills. We even saw a group riders on Enfields obviously doing a tour. They did not look like locals as they were well kitted out. I have many photos of the route through the hills and even a short video taken from the rear passenger seat of the car. This is on YouTube the link is http://youtu.be/VRz8G1WHAz0 . I can understand why the tours use this area as the roads are well paved and mostly smooth tarmac. I will need to do this another time as having driven over them it would be great to do it on a bike (between nice hotels of course). It took all morning to get there and I wondered if it would be worth the effort. I was not disappointed. What is at Chotila is the Royal Enfield shrine. It is the place where Om Bana was tragically killed in a collision with a truck. I learned more of the story from the car driver who took us there and we were the first visitors he had to visit this shrine. 

 Entrance to the shrine.

 I will relay the story in the next instalment but this is about my visit and not the story. As with all temples and shrines you take your shoes off as a sign of respect then if you wish to raise the spirits to listen to you must ring the bell. I proceed on to the next stage you get a mark on your forehead called a bindi to show you are receiving a blessing for which you are required to donate something.  I moved on solemnly to see the Shrine of the Enfield. The motorcycle has been encased in a glass cover to protect it from the weather but you are still able to reach in and touch it at the front.

 I spent some time looking at it walking around it and taking photos. There was a kind of reverence about what was represented here. I took more photos of the front of the shrine which was raised by about a metre where incense was burning along with an eternal flame and there were photos of Om Bana in his wedding attire. The sign of respect is to pass your hand over the flame and incense smoke and run your hand over your face and hair. At this point I passed over more money for this privilege and took more photos. As I left this dais I felt quite emotional. It was like paying your respects not only to the man who died but all the other lost bikers everywhere. I received for my gift some confection that I am bringing home as a memory of this reverend place. The story of the accident comes next.

A place to remember

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Puri

Having had a really good experience in Chennai we embarked upon having some culture. This we thought we just might get at the Jagannath temple in Puri. Puri is on the coast and we booked a hotel on the sea front. 

 

 Puri beach. No sun  loungers or brollies here!

On arriving things were fine but our first trip in a tuc-tuc to see the town resulted on being rammed in the side by a stupid taxi driver in a 4 by 4. The tuc-tuc rocked a bit and seemed undamaged. The 4 by 4 had a very second hand front bumper. No one was hurt as it was a very slow speed shunt. After some heated exchanges between the drivers our tuc-tuc was on its way to go shopping. Unfortunately for us there was little to be had and we returned to our hotel early. The next day we fared no better. Having got to the temple, being forced to walk for ages past open sewers and vast numbers of cow pats still steaming, because the tuc-tuc driver didn’t want to go any nearer, I was not  permitted to enter the Temple as I was not Hindu. 

An Enfield parked near the temple.

We tried more shopping and again unsuccessful. A walk along the beach was pleasant enough but it was less tidy than the average refuse tip. We were woken up early in the morning to be told that we should have checked out from the hotel 5 minutes ago and would have to pay a supplement! Our complimentary breakfast was not available until after 7:00 am after checking out! You could not have it if you had checked out! You may gather we were not impressed! We took a taxi to Bhubaneswar to get our flight to Delhi leaving plenty of time to visit more temples. Once again I was not permitted to enter the main one. I was also asked to remove my shoes  in the car park too that was well away from the Temple. You do not wear any footwear in a temple anyway, but before you get there! My response was emphatic! We then headed off to a big market and found nothing to buy. The nearest Enfield shop was 40km away too far to visit in the time available so I have the picture of the one from Trivandrum instead.

 

Lunch in a nice restaurant and so early at the airport that I have time to write this and reflect on our visit to this religious centre. We did visit a Buddhist temple on the way and surprisingly it was a very uplifting experience. I have now a little time to reflect on the events of the last few days and I am still trying to reconcile the respect that people have for their families but none for anyone else and this is well represented by their driving and lack of courtesy and arrogance. A society that gives so much to their religion gives so little to their fellow man. You have generosity in the UK that gives millions to children and with the cold snap in Delhi a charity drive only managed 30,000 blankets for the poor from tens of millions of people I think it is around 80 million population in and around Delhi! I have seen such beautiful workmanship from craftsmen that is seems impossible to believe that even the simplest task is made impossible by thoughtlessness. Sometimes there seems to be the idea only to do the job they are told to do and not what is required. An example would be that your meal would be served but you would not have any plates to eat it from until they were asked for. I now have to do some postings on Trip Advisor. Moving on to nicer thoughts so far with so much travelling I’ve not had chance to get on a bike and have some fun since Dibrughar weeks ago. I still have time providing it is warm enough, Delhi Belly or my persistent cold gets in the way! 

 

  Diesel Enfield!

Royal Enfields are fixed in my mind and now having posted the photos to Ram of the Flying Flea and Greg Staves Enfield I found a photo I had taken in Cochin of a diesel Enfield that was over 25 years old. Lucky for us emissions in India have forced production to stop. Mind you 80km on a litre of fuel is immensely attractive but you will only be doing 40 kph! That is the speed that most people drive or ride at so getting anywhere is incredibly slow. The Enfield engine was redesigned in 2008 to have unit gearbox and conform to USA and European emissions with EFI. In India it is predominantly a carburretored motor. They produce around 7500 per year with a waiting time of between 3 to 8 months depending on model. They have made over 3,000,000 bikes since production started in India in 1955. I did get asked the question by Ram about what is the most popular bike in the UK and it does come down to adventure bikes. I asked about the “twin” and there is something in the pipeline. I do hope they follow the example of Triumph and the Bonneville. It would be sad if the twin could not compete on performance. More thoughts to come and more bike shops to visit.